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When Cammie Storms received her celiac disease diagnosis, her heart sank at the thought of giving up pierogi.
“That was my main concern,” she shared. “I remember being in Atlanta when my GI doctor asked me, ‘What is that?’ I had to explain, ‘You don’t understand. I’m Polish, from Philly, and pierogi are the best food on earth. Nothing beats them.”
Fortunately for enthusiasts like Storms, those days of being deprived of pierogi are over. Little Walter’s, a modern Polish restaurant in Kensington, has introduced a monthly gluten-free night due to popular demand.
The upcoming events are scheduled for Tuesday, March 17, and Tuesday, April 14. Diners can enjoy a completely celiac-friendly menu featuring cornbread, kiełbasa, pickled vegetables, gołąbki, pierogi, and cheesecake.
A Neighborly Endeavor
When Chef Michael Brenfleck opened Little Walter’s in the summer of 2024, his goal wasn’t specifically to accommodate gluten-free diners. Instead, he aimed to honor his Polish heritage by giving traditional cuisine a modern twist.
However, the concept of a gluten-free night was already on his mind from the onset.
“Our next-door neighbor is Polish and gluten-free,” Brenfleck revealed. “Before we even opened, she expressed how much she missed pierogi and frequently asked me when I would offer gluten-free options.”
That neighbor? Cammie Storms.
Storms described her mixed feelings about living next to a Polish restaurant.
“I imagined sitting in my backyard, smelling those delicious pierogi cooking, which was both wonderful and torturous,” she said.
Determined, Storms began “gently nudging” Brenfleck about introducing gluten-free pierogi to the menu. Advocacy for gluten-free options isn’t new for her; as the director of sales at La Colombe, she has a history of expanding gluten-free menu items.
Every few months, she would text Brenfleck, asking, “Have you made any progress on gluten-free pierogi?” Additionally, she would visit the restaurant to sample the non-gluten options and inquire about the status of the flourless dumplings.
Pierogi hold a special place in Storms’ heart, evoking vivid memories of her childhood. Her grandmother would make them from scratch, and she fondly recalls sneaking bites while her grandmother reprimanded her playfully.
“I’d try to steal a piece before dinner was ready,” she laughed. “My grandmother would swat my hand with a wooden spoon and threaten to ‘get my dupa,’ which means my butt in Polish.”
“That’s one of the few Polish words I remember,” she chuckled, “dupa.”
After months of persistence, Brenfleck finally had an encouraging update for Storms: they were ready to test the gluten-free pierogi recipe.
The Craft of Gluten-Free Pierogi
An excellent pierogi should be soft yet resilient, combining the right elasticity with a delicious bite. Perfecting a gluten-free dough that maintains these qualities is a challenging task.
“Initially, we tried a straightforward one-to-one flour replacement,” Brenfleck shared. “But we soon realized that it needed more potato, egg, and additional egg yolk, along with whey protein to provide the structure and flavor we were aiming for. The first attempt just didn’t stand up.”
Brenfleck described that the initial dough crumbled easily, making it unsuitable for pierogi.
“We went through numerous tests and adjustments before coming up with a dough we are proud of,” he noted.
In addition to crafting the perfect pierogi, maintaining a gluten-free kitchen in a compact space poses its own challenges. Avoiding cross-contamination during regular service is nearly next to impossible.
“It’s essential for people to feel safe dining here,” Brenfleck stated. “I don’t want anyone to feel like they’re taking a risk while eating at my restaurant.”
The solution? A dedicated gluten-free night reserved exclusively for gluten-free dishes, involving an extensive kitchen cleaning.
“We bake bread and pierogi every day,” Brenfleck said. “So, we conduct a deep clean when we’re closed. I get my staff together, and we scrub down the entire kitchen.”
“The goal was to eliminate any traces of flour, and the enthusiasm surrounding the gluten-free night was tremendous,” he added.
“Not Your Average Night”
Little Walter’s inaugural gluten-free night was a resounding success. Storms finally had her beloved pierogi back in her life.
“To be able to rediscover a cherished dish that was taken from you by a medical diagnosis is indescribable,” she reflected. “It felt magical to enjoy that comfort food again, especially in a room filled with others who shared a similar journey.”
“It was one of the best days of my life,” Storms exclaimed.
“Everyone was cheerful and engaged,” she recalled. “No one expected to have this experience again; it felt like we were all savoring the moment.”
The overwhelming demand led Brenfleck to schedule a second gluten-free night. “There’s a substantial need for gluten-free options,” he remarked.
“We wanted to cater to those eager for gluten-free pierogi, while being mindful of the limitations of our space,” he added.
Storms loved the pierogi so much that she ordered several varieties to take home, preparing them in her air fryer whenever she craved a taste.
Now, there’s no need to stockpile pierogi. Little Walter’s gluten-free night has become a beloved monthly tradition, with reservations filling up quickly.
“For many, it’s a chance to relive a special food that they might not have had in years or possibly ever,” Brenfleck noted. “There’s definitely a buzz in the air that distinguishes it from an ordinary evening.”
“If the demand continues, we might consider hosting these nights biweekly,” he added.
Storms is incredibly thankful for having Brenfleck and Little Walter’s just next door.
“While many view being gluten-free as a trend, more people are being diagnosed with severe gluten intolerances or celiac disease,” Storms said. “I’m truly appreciative that Mike sees this not only as a business opportunity but as a way to contribute to the community as a trailblazer in this arena.”
“I can’t express my gratitude enough,” she added. “Thank you, Mike, for bringing joy to my gluten-free heart.”
