Top 8 Men’s Overcoat Styles and How to Wear Them

Overcoats are a cornerstone of men’s fashion, yet they often go unnoticed. While you may possess one, it’s typically acquired out of necessity, lacking the thrill associated with other wardrobe choices. An overcoat serves as essential armor against harsh weather, allowing you to reveal your carefully selected attire underneath.

This vital garment must meet unique demands: it should withstand inclement weather, endure frequent wear, and complement both formal and casual outfits. Unlike most clothing items, an overcoat is something you truly rely on day after day.

If your choice is a flashy, fur-trimmed design, best of luck to you. For the rest of us—similar to shoes, which also face substantial wear and tear—investing in quality is wise. A few extra pounds are certainly worth it when aiming for timeless classics like the options detailed below.

Buying Considerations

Acquiring an overcoat is a significant investment. If you choose poorly, you might as well have spent that money on a vacation in the sun. However, make the right choice, and you’ll not only enjoy years of use but also glamorous moments that make you feel like a star when you step into a bar.

Here are some essential factors to keep in mind while browsing for your perfect overcoat.

When You’ll Wear It

Consider the context in which you’ll wear this coat. If it’s for your professional wardrobe, tailored options like crombies, trench coats, or oversized belted styles are ideal.

For leisurely days spent at the park with children, a duffel or parka would be more practical. These styles are easy to clean and feature spacious pockets for snacks and toys—or even a little something for yourself during particularly hectic weeks.

Material

Consider the primary function of your coat beyond aesthetics. A waterproof gabardine trench coat will keep you dry during rainstorms, though you’ll want warmth underneath for chilly days with knitwear.

A padded parka provides excellent insulation but may feel restricting on a crowded train. Wool offers a balanced choice—surprisingly water-resistant and warm enough for early morning dog walks.

Colour

Choosing the right colour is vital, influenced by your skin tone and existing wardrobe. Classic grey and navy offer versatility, being more adaptable than black while remaining safer than camel or coffee colours. However, taking risks can also be rewarding.

Bright primary colours work well for outerwear, while a khaki green offers an alternative without being overly bold, similar to how it complements trousers. Patterns such as checks, herringbone, or mottled fabrics can add interest, breaking away from traditional office wear or standard streetwear.

Length

Length is primarily about proportion. Taller individuals generally benefit from longer coats, which reach mid-thigh for a balanced look. In contrast, shorter men should aim for cropped styles, especially if wearing a suit, in which case the coat should adequately cover the jacket.

The Covert/Crombie Coat

The covert coat owes its existence to Scottish weaver John Crombie and a request from the Russian royal family for a country-coat design. Its name derives from the French term “couvert” (meaning a shady spot), featuring a distinctive velvet collar, a ticket pocket, poacher’s pocket, and bands of reinforcing stitching along the cuffs and hem. Often made of thorn-proof fabric, this coat became synonymous with refined elegance.

Though it has its roots in sophistication and formality, the classic lines make it suitable for layering over suits. In fact, it has been a favorite among icons such as Churchill, Kennedy, and Sinatra. But can it also work with more casual outfits, such as sweatshirts and jeans? While it’s versatile, remember that these icons typically favored more formal attire.

Ape Recommends

The Peacoat

Perhaps due to its naval roots, the peacoat exudes a rugged charm. Evolving from the double-breasted reefer jackets originally worn by sailors in the 19th century, the quintessential peacoat was developed for the US Navy just before World War II.

Crafted from dense Melton wool, the peacoat features a protective collar that shields the head, a broad double-breasted closure studded with buttons, and deep, corduroy-lined pockets to keep hands warm. This design has been widely imitated and remains timeless. By opting for a longer version, you can combine its elegance with tailored or casual outfits.

For a calf-length variant with gold buttons, you’re looking at a bridge coat—another elegant naval style less suitable for casual outings.

Ape Recommends

The Duffel Coat

It’s hard to separate the duffel coat from its association with Paddington Bear. Yet dismiss that image and think of figures like Field Marshal Bernard Montgomery, who made this look iconic.

A coat without a specific military affiliation, the duffel coat has been associated predominantly with the Navy. It was designed as a reliable coat for sailors and merchant seamen, adaptable to any weather conditions.

Characterized by its simple, unlined wool design, its mid-thigh length, large patch pockets, and hood—all with a toggle fastening meant to be easily operated even when wearing gloves—this coat was communal property: available for any sailor who needed it and left for the next person afterward.

This practice likely won’t suit your needs, but the duffel coat pairs perfectly with casual wear. Surprisingly, it can also complement suitings, especially if it comes in a darker hue.

Ape Recommends

The Car Coat

Wondering what a car coat is? It originated in a time when vehicles lacked adequate insulation. First appearing in the early 1900s, the car coat was designed to keep occupants warm and their formal attire intact in the absence of roofs.

This coat usually features a single-breasted design made from thick wool, buttoning up to the neck, and boasts a collar that can be raised against cold winds. Typically cut short to upper thigh length, it offers a slight A-line flair and lacks a rear vent for comfort while seated.

As a stripped-down design, the car coat is practical and easy to wear—essentially the precursor to the mac, which is a lighter, waterproof adaptation. Its simplicity makes it remarkably adaptable for various occasions.

Ape Recommends

The Parka

The parka—overcoat or mere coat? The latter is generally less adaptable for dressing up. Originating as a military garment, the parka has a proven track record. First introduced in 1945 as part of the “cold-weather system,” it featured a warm liner and unlined outer layer that evolved through various iterations for later conflicts.

The most contemporary version is the fishtail design loved by mods and icons like Liam Gallagher, constructed from a quick-drying cotton/nylon blend with a detachable fur-trimmed hood. You’ll find it loose-fitting overall, but with belts and cords to secure both you and your ensemble against the weather.

This includes multiple variations—shorter designs, more vibrant colours, options for mountain climbing, or leisurely walks. The question remains whether the style translates well into more formal scenarios. With careful pairing (think smart-casual or business-casual rather than full suits), the parka can fit the bill.

Ape Recommends

The Double-Breasted Overcoat

Like the pea coat, the double-breasted overcoat has naval roots. Its design, with two rows of buttons at the front and a wide lapel, conveys elegance and authority onboard and off. This formal coat is ideal over a suit but can also be adapted to casual attire with the right styling.

The dramatic proportions of this coat work to express power and serve as a statement of elegance. You might recall Daniel Craig sporting a commanding black version in the film Spectre.

Ape Recommends

The Trench Coat

The trench coat is another example of a garment with a rich history that began in combat. Worn by officers during World War I, the trench coat served to protect against the harsh conditions of trench warfare. Its practicality and durability have kept it relevant over the decades.

Thanks to icons like Humphrey Bogart, it became synonymous with the classic detective aesthetic, and was further popularized by Michael Caine in films like The Ipcress File.

Although the core design remains unchanged, modern versions retain some of the functional aspects, like storm flaps and cuff adjusters, which provide both weather protection and a touch of style. Look for padded options if you need added warmth, or select vibrant, patterned styles to break away from traditional tan shades.

Ape Recommends

The Mac

The mac is essentially a simplified trench coat, designed without extra embellishments. Smart and weather-resistant, this three-quarter style coat combines practicality with versatility, making it an essential in any man’s wardrobe.

Predating the trench, the mac was conceived by Scottish chemist Charles Mackintosh in the early 19th century when he created water-repellent cotton by applying rubber to it. The design has remained largely unchanged, featuring a clean silhouette with concealed buttons and poppable collars for warmth.

Seek out options made from treated cotton to ensure the coat repels water, and consider models with detachable linings to adapt for seasonal changes.

Ape Recommends